The Grampians

The Grampians offers an incredible diversity of climbing. Approximately 100 km long and 45 km wide and covering an area of almost 2000 square kms the Grampians has something for everyone. No other area in Australia offers the quality and quantiy of climbing and such unlimited potential.
A lot of the climbing requires the placement of natural gear, however in the last five years numerous sport climbing areas have been developed. Not only is the Grampians a world class climbing area it is slowly becoming renowned for its bouldering.

LOCATION: The Grampians National Park is located 260 km NW of Melbourne, Victoria. A 4hr drive will get you to most areas. For the Northern Grampians, take the Western Hwy through Ballarat, Ararat and Stawell. For the southern Grampians, turn left onto the Glenelg Hwy at Ballarat towards Dunkeld.
ROCK: The rock varies from grey sandstone to beautiful orange and red quartzite.
CAMPING: It is possible to camp throughout the bush in the Grampians. Official campsites offer the advantage of toilets, tap-water and fireplaces but attract user fees (usually about $6 a night). Often climbers will camp at Arapiles and take day trips to the Northern Grampians - about an hour's drive. Camp fires should be thoroughly extinquished before leaving; bush fires are a real threat in the Grampians.

Julian Saunders on his Daedalus (28), Taipan Wall, The Grampians.

WHEN TO GO: The best time to visit the Grampians is during spring (September to November) or autumn (March to May). In summer, temperature can soar to the mid 40s and in winter it can be bitterly cold.

AREA LOCATION GRADES COMMENTS
Mt Stapylton
N 15-32 Best crag - Taipan Wall - and bouldering
Bundaleer S - E 11-29 100 routes
Buandik W 23-32 Best sport climbing area
Mt Rosea S - E 14-26 Best multi-pitch area
RECOMMENDED READING: Selected climbs in the Grampians by Glenn Tempest and Simon Mentz