Warrambungles

Dawn light on Belougery Spire (left) and The Bread-Knife, The Warrumbungles. Climbing on the Breadknife is banned.

"Adventurous" is the word for the Warrumbungles. Some of the best long routes (100-450m) and probably the highest concentration of long routes in Australia are found here. The routes are generally quite serious, irrespective of the grade, and route-finding is almost always a problem - but this just adds to the adventure. The grades of the routes range from 8 to 24 but the majority are between 14 and 21. There are four main climbing areas - Crater Bluff, Belougery Spire, Touduron and Bluff Mountain.

ROCK: Volcanic

LOCATION: The Warrumbungles National Park is about 360 km, or 8hrs drive, NW of Sydney, just west of Coonabarabran on the Newell Hwy. Drive to Coonabarabran, then follow the well-signposted road past the Siding Springs Observatory, to the National Park (about 33km).

CAMPING: Most climbers choose to camp at Balmor Hut - a 1.5-hour walk up the hill from the Camp Pincham carpark. Balmor Hut offers tank water, however this sometimes runs dry (ask the rangers). You'll need to book ahead to arrange to pay the $4-per-night fees -- Ph: (02) 68 254 364. Balmor Hut provides accesss to a range of areas - Belougery Spire, Crater Bluff, The Bread Knife and Bluff Mountain. There are numerous other camping areas throughout the park.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: Autumn (March-May) and Spring (September-November).
RECOMMENDED READING: The Warrunbungles. An insert for Rock Magazine No20 Jan-Jun 1994. Published by Wild Publications Pty Ltd PO Box 415 Prahran Vic 3181
Belougery Spire
ROUTE LENGTH GRADE
Vertigo 78m 10
Out and Beyond 249m 15
Belougery Spire
ROUTE LENGTH GRADE
Tourist Route 63m 9
Leiben 260m 17
Cornerstone Rib Direct 190m 14
Bluff Mountain
ROUTE LENGTH GRADE
Bastion Buttress 240m 13
Flight of the Phoenix 330m 18
Ginsberg 332m 19
 
Climbing Locations